Kunming to Dali by train

The train, and which station to look for

Trains run from Kunming Railway Station in the north of the city to Dali in about 2 hours on the Dali-Lijiang high-speed line. Second class is roughly 145 to 155 RMB depending on the service, and first class is higher for little extra benefit on a trip this short.

There are two Dali stations and this is the single most common mistake. Dali station sits on the east side of Erhai, close to the old town, about 10 to 15 minutes by taxi. Dali West is the older station several kilometres away on the west side of the lake, so a trip from there to the old town takes 30 to 40 minutes by taxi or bus. Check the station name on your ticket before you board.

Booking and other ways to travel

• Buy on the 12306 app or site in advance; trains on the Dali and Lijiang routes sell out in holiday weeks, which in China include the May Day and National Day breaks.
• Tickets open about 15 days before departure, and early morning and midday departures are the first to go.
• The long-distance bus takes roughly 4 hours and costs less, but it is slower on mountain roads and drops you at a bus station rather than a station you can walk out of.
• A private car or driver takes around 3 hours and costs several times more, but it is the only sensible option if you have more than two people and heavy luggage.
• Flying only makes sense if you are coming from outside Yunnan, since the flights are short and the airports are far out.

On arrival in Dali

From Dali station, a taxi to the old town is quick and cheap. The old town gates are walkable from most of the central guesthouses, and the Three Pagodas are a 15 minute walk south of the centre.

Do not plan a tight connection on the same day as a long train ride from another city. Dali rewards an afternoon of nothing in particular, which is how the lake road and the old town actually get appreciated.