7 days in Yunnan: the classic loop

The order that works

Days 1 and 2 in Kunming, day 3 the Stone Forest, day 4 to Dali, day 5 to Lijiang, day 6 to Shangri-La, day 7 back towards Kunming. It is a clean line westwards with no backtracking, which matters when the long stretches are by bus.

The alternative, for travellers who want less road time, is Kunming for two days, then the high-speed rail to Dali and Lijiang, then a flight back from Lijiang or Diqing. It costs more and saves half a day of sitting in a bus.

Day by day

Days 1 and 2: Green Lake, the Flower Market, the museum, the Western Hills, and the Stone Forest as a day trip. Day 3 is the long one, so keep the evening free.

Day 4: high-speed rail to Dali in the morning, then the old town, the Three Pagodas and the Erhai lakeside road in the afternoon. Day 5: Dali to Lijiang by rail or bus, then the old town and Lion Hill at dusk.

Day 6: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Blue Moon Valley, then the road to Shangri-La if you have the energy for it. Day 7: Dukezong and Songzanlin in the morning, then travel back out.

What to cut, and when

• Short on time: drop the Stone Forest day and keep the city days. The Stone Forest is the best single trip, but it is a whole day.
• Short on energy: drop Shangri-La. It is 3,280 m and the altitude is real; a week of Yunnan at altitude is a different trip from a week of Yunnan at 2,000 m.
• Short on budget: the train to Dali and Lijiang, and buses elsewhere, are the cheapest way to move between them.
• Travelling in winter: the gulls at Dianchi and the clear high-altitude light make January to March the best months for the plateau.